Ummmmm Good; A Sweet Story

For decades a popular office treat was an alligator. No, not the antediluvian reptile from the Southern swamps, but a coffeecake pastry filled with almond paste and iced with toasted almonds on the outside that was easily purchased with a quick stop at one of the many Roselyn Bakery stores.
Locally owned and operated for 56 years, Roselyn Bakeries satisfied the sweet tooth with baked goods that included chocolate fudge brownies, eclairs, sheet cakes, pecan tea cookies, and sweetheart coffeecakes. In 1999, significant sanitary violations were found at Roselyn’s production facility. While no one ever got sick or died from eating the baked goods, overly zealous media coverage as the company was taking corrective action made it impossible for the bakery to continue with its retail business. Roselyn’s later sold its recipes to another bakery and a few of the more popular products can be found at Kroger stores today.
Other locally owned Indianapolis bakeries may have had one or two outlets in addition to the primary store, but mostly serve a specific area of the city. Taylor’s Bakery, 6216 Allisonville Rd, has been around since 1913 and is the oldest family run sweet shop in Indiana. For decades the bakery was at 38th and Illinois, opening a second store on Allisonville in 1968 which became the main store five years later. Taylor’s cakes are prized for birthdays, weddings, and other special occasions, but the glass display case is full of tempting choices from doughnuts and coffeecakes to cookies and brownies. Today in addition to the main store, there is a Taylor’s Bakery in the Fishers Town Center.
For most people in Indianapolis just the mention of “Long’s” will bring a dreamy eyed response, “I just love those doughnuts.” Located at 16th St. and Tremont since 1955, Long’s Bakery has been a Westside landmark known for its doughnuts made from a dough recipe that makes Long’s doughnuts lighter than other yeast doughnuts. The airy texture with an almost crispy sugary glaze gives Long’s doughnuts an almost melt-in-the mouth quality that brings people to the store from near and far. Today in addition to the Westside sweet shop, Southsiders can pick-up a dozen of the famous doughnuts at Long’s Southport store.
Since 1968 lovers of all things German have made their way to Heidelberg Haus on Pendleton Pike in Lawrence. Fanciful gnomes tempt customers to select a slice of Black Forest cake or butter cream torte and to savor the delicacy at a café table with a cup of coffee. While known for its wedding cakes and other frosted treats, the bakery’s anise and cherry flavored Springerle cookies or the spicy Pfeffernuss and honey sweet Lebkuchen cookies, are a holiday tradition sought by many a sweet tooth.
For twenty years the one-story terra-cotta-faced building at the northeast corner of Capitol Ave. and 16th St, was the home to Crawford’s Bakery & Deli. Lunchtime crowds could enjoy a traditional deli meat on a flaky croissant and then settle back and enjoy a slice of Italian cream cake or a cream cheese iced chocolate chip brownie. Crawford’s cakes were highly desired for weddings and special occasions, but for some the coconut cream pie was the best in the city. Sadly, this iconic bakery closed in 2008 when the owner was unable to negotiate a suitable lease and the historic building was razed several years later.
Boyden’s Bakery has been providing no-frill sweets since the early 1930s. From its original store at 3815 E. New York St. to the bakery’s present southside location at 3953 S. Meridian St., Boyden’s entices doughnut lovers with everything from a variety of glazed cake to glazed yeast and jelly filled. The cherry cheese Danish and honey dew coffeecake along with the baby alligators have been satisfying the sweet tooth for decades. Glazed cake and glazed yeast doughnut holes are prized favorites at Hart Bakery & Gifts, 7030 E. 10th, Indy’s third oldest family-owned bakery. While old fashioned sweet rolls have been a staple since the bakery opened after World War II, customers line up daily for Hart’s apple fritters, pecan sticky buns, hand-made turtles, and tea cookies.
For 45 years “Regen’s Rye Will Satisfy” was the motto of the Regen Baking Co., 826 S. Meridian St. Specializing in rye and swirled (marble) rye bread, Regen’s also introduced French and Vienna breads to Indianapolis when the company opened. Regen’s breads and rolls could be found on any restaurant table in the city as well as being available at the company’s retail store. Also, a local Jewish holiday table wouldn’t be complete without a Regen challah. By 1980, the aging building and bakery equipment were not up to board of health standards and, coupled with mismanagement on the part of the new owner, this iconic bakery closed its doors in 1981.
Although some bake shops lasted decades and others only a few years, those seeking a sugary treat in Indianapolis today are fortunate to have a wide selection of locally owned bakeries from which to pick a unique delight. In addition to the well-established bakeries, among the newer ones are Rene’s Bakery in Broad Ripple, famous for its almond croissant and apple cinnamon scone, and Mass Ave’s The Flying Cupcake serving delicious German chocolate and red velvet cupcakes. In Fountain Square and its newest locationo in Windsor Park, Amelia’s is known for its fresh baked breads and Native Bread on Allisonville Rd. at 96th Street Station has a variety of gluten free breads, including the popular seeded boule. A welcome change from traditional pastries may be found at El Globo Mexican Bakery, one of several panaderia across the city. Located on Georgetown Rd in Speedway, El Globo, features tres leches cake, miniature conchas, churros, and bolillos.
While sweet memories are all that remain of favorite delicacies from bakeries long gone, the remaining venerable sweet shops, together with the newer ones, continue to satisfy the sweet tooth.