Button It Up!

This column first appeared in August 2011.

It is one of little things that we never take much note of, but how many times a day do we rely on the efficiency of the tiny little disc we call a button?
Unlike many collectibles that take years to become established, buttons were instantly collectible. The hobby first caught on among the affluent (King Louis XIV of France spent over $5 million on buttons during his lifetime), and then gradually trickled down to the masses.
Today’s collectors focus on buttons from 1800-1940.  Bone, glass, plastics, metals, nuts, antlers and stone — the button has taken many forms, reflecting both fashion and social attitude as it has traveled through time. The wealth of information available on buttons could fill volumes. But here are a few popular styles to watch for.
One of the most popular of the collectible buttons from the early 1800s are cloisonné buttons. These diminutive works of art were the most difficult to produce because the process demanded that tiny threads of wire be soldered to a base. The resulting cavities were then filled with enamel and the button was fired.
Pewter buttons used for men’s clothing from the early 1800s are a rare find, but do occasionally surface. From 1820-1850, fashion taste changed and men’s buttons were made of brass. In the 1850s, men’s taste turned to silver buttons and they remained in vogue into the early 1900s. Pewter buttons are also found from the late 1800s, but these will be from women’s clothing.
The Victorian era, with it’s tendency toward the ornate, brought us picture buttons with stamped images from popular operas and literary works of the day. Black glass buttons were popularized by Queen Victoria during her mourning period after the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861. Often taking the form of plants or animals, they are collected for their high relief and attention to detail. One of the rarest finds from the Victorian era buttons are those made of “jet,” an expensive, light weight mineral mined in parts of England. True jet buttons are easy to identify as they will be warm to the touch.
Celluloid buttons first appeared in the Sears and Roebuck Catalog for 1897. Early celluloid was extremely fragile and few survived. In early plastic buttons you are much more likely to find Bakelite buttons from 1920-1950. They will be carved and embellished with a metal escutcheon, often in in the shape of an animal or a plant. Others were decorated with glass sequins or semi-precious stones. “Cookie” buttons made from a long section of laminated Bakelite that was sliced into wafers are a good find. Also watch for buttons made of Lucite, a synthetic resin produced by DuPont in the mid-1930s.
From the years between the two world wars come some of the most beautiful of all the artisan buttons. Made of glass, they featured Art Deco stylings and are often found in near mint condition. After WWII Bohemian glassblowers produced an unusual button called “moonglow.” These opaque buttons with a clear glass face are not as valuable as their earlier counterparts but are still desirable to round out a collection.
For more in depth information on button collecting and a schedule of shows in your area visit The National Button Society website at www.nationalbuttonsociety.org.  Until next time . . . Linda

Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in down-sizing for seniors and the liquidation of estates.