This column first appeared in March 2012.
The great surge of adventurous Americans who rushed to California to pan for gold in the mid-1800s brought with them very few personal possessions. They did, however bring with the great opportunity for the area businessmen. One such industrious young man was 24-year- old Loeb Strauss. Known to his friends as “Levi”, Strauss saw the opportunity to expand his family business to accommodate the miners pouring into the San Francisco Bay area. In 1853 he opened his first store at 90 Sacramento St. and his efforts were met with considerable success.
Yet, it would not be his talents as a merchant that would garner Strauss a place in history, but rather his ability to know a good opportunity when he saw one. Strauss befriended a local tailor named Jacob Davis who catered to the local prospectors, many of whom shared a common problem — they were constantly ripping the pockets from their pants. To strengthen his customer’s trousers Davis had been reinforcing the pockets with a tough cotton twill and putting metal rivets at the corners of the pockets and the crotch. A simple solution? Yes, yet very effective. The pants quickly caught on and Davis decided to take out a patent on the idea. There was only one problem. He did not have the $68 required to file the paperwork. So who did he call? His good friend Levi Strauss. The two men became partners and on May 20,1873 they received their patent, and the rest, as they say, is history.
Today, old jeans have caught the eye of collectors who are willing to pay top dollar for a 19th century pair of jeans. While it is unlikely you will ever come across a pair, it is well worth the search as they have been know to sell at auction in excess of $50,000! What you may be more likely to come across are 1930s Levi jeans with the “buckleback” feature have that been known to sell in the $1,500-$2,000 range and if you still have a pair of Wrangler “Blue Bell” jeans stashed somewhere in storage they are bringing $100.
Why the interest in old denim clothes? It would appear that people around the world are fascinated by the concept of the American Cowboy and are willing to pay good money for items associated with the persona. So how do you tell a $5 pair of old jeans from one worth the big bucks? Here is a brief history lesson that will aid in identification.
1873: Stiff 3-pocket “waist overalls” were introduced in California and sold for 22 cents each. 1886:Strauss added a leather patch with “two hitched horses” unable to pull apart a pair of his jeans. 1890: A small fourth pocket was added by Strauss above the front pocket. 1890: The “wallet pocket” was added. 1913: H.D. Lee introduced the one-piece denim “Union-All.” 1922: The first belt loops were added. 1924: 13 ounce Lee Rider Jeans were introduced. 1926: Zippers replaced buttons. 1930: The Levi “red tag” was added to the back pocket. Tags appeared on jeans. 1950: James Dean appears in “Rebel Without A “Cause” wearing blue jeans and they become an instant symbol of youth and rebellion. As a result they were temporarily banned in many restaurants and schools (Collectors note: 1950s jeans are gaining in value.) 1963: The first “bell-bottoms” hit the stores. 1971: Levi changed the “E” to an “e” on their red tags.
For more information on the history of jeans check the online bookstores for Ranch Dressing: The Story of Western Wear by M. Jean Greenlaw or Levi Strauss — The Blue Jeans Man by Elizabeth Van Steenwyk. Both of which will make you think twice the next time Grandma says she needs someone to help her clean out Grandpa’s closets! Until next time . . . Linda
Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in down-sizing for seniors and the liquidation of estates and may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett70@gmail.com
