The post-war years of the 1920s were a time of economic growth for the United States. Disposable income among the middle class, which had been nearly nonexistent in the previous decade, was now on the upswing and items considered only affordable for the affluent now became a part of the buying habits of the working class. Women’s rights were also coming into play and the female population expressed their freedom by bobbing their hair, raising their hemlines and wearing makeup. Makeup, known ten years earlier as “paint,” and been reserved for movie stars and dancers, was now for women from all walks of life.
By 1929 there were over 18,000 beauty salons in America and makeup was carried by all of the major department stores. The cosmetic culture flourished with companies like Helen Rubinstein, Maybelline, Coty and Elizabeth Arden manufacturing powder, lipstick, and eye makeup that allowed the women of America to mimic the stars of the silver screen. No longer a habit to be kept under wraps, the application of makeup now went public and women would often apply powder and lipstick in restaurants and other public places. The time was right for the compact and the major beauty companies manufactured them by the thousands.
The Art Deco Era of the 1920s and 1930s is considered by many to be the Golden Era of compact design. Serious collectors from this era watch for those in unusual forms like of clams, pyramids, and sphinxes. The most desirable examples from this era were made of brass, pewter and 24K gold which are currently selling in the $90-$300 range. Compacts made of Bakelite and other art plastics are also popular with collectors and will be more reasonably priced in the $12-$35 range.
While it may seem a strange alliance, the U.S. government and the cosmetic companies worked together to propagandize the wearing of makeup as a woman’s patriotic duty! Magazine and newspaper ads from the war years of the 1940s often carried statements like “To look unattractive is downright morale breaking and should be considered treason” Each branch of the service issued compacts with their insignias. Some of the most collectible among these will be in the shape of a military hat. Also, be on the lookout for heart shaped “sweetheart compacts” designed for service men to send home to their wives or girlfriends.
Compacts from 1950-1960 are gaining in popularity and value. These tend to be more ornate than those from the previous decade with hand-painted flowers, mother-of-pearl inlays and in some cases rhinestones and pearls. Enameled or gilded metal compacts with a lipstick case attached and those with a matching cigarette case are always a good find. Names to watch for include Dorset Fifth Avenue, Elgin and Zell.
By the 1970s women wanted a more natural look and the cosmetic companies turned their efforts to the manufacturing of cheap powder and liquid foundation that could be purchased at the drug store. Interest in the compact waned and by the mid-70s they were a thing of the past.
Proper care of your compact can help it to retain its value. Immediately after purchase remove all powder residue and wipe it down with a damp cloth. It is important to dry the entire compact as moisture left inside can damage the mirror and rust the hinge. If your compact has a lacquer finish in should be cleaned with a silicone spray. Some collectors prefer to keep their compacts on display, but should you want to use yours there are pressed powder refills available for 67mm in diameter compacts from Max Factor, Rimmel and Estee Lauder. Until next time . . . Linda
Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in down-sizing for seniors and may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett@indy.rr.com
