My greatest fear in starting this column 21 years ago was that I would run out of subject matter. Thanks to you, my loyal readers, that has never been an issue. You arouse my curiosity, challenge my memory and send me scurrying to the computer for research on a regular basis. I enjoy your e-mails, phone calls and the one-on-one conversations we often have at the grocery store. Try as I may, I seem to run out of weeks before I get to all of your questions. So, if you have been waiting for a reply . . . here you go!.
Q: Is dovetailing a good way to determine the age of furniture?
A: The drawers of furniture hold many clues to age determination. As a general rule, the fewer the dovetails the older the piece. Wood craftsmen generally used 3-4 small dovetails in the early part of the 19th century, increasing that to 8 or more as we moved into the Victorian era. When examining drawer construction be on the lookout for pencil or scribe marks. These were used to help the craftsman line up the dovetailing and are a sign that the piece was handmade. Uneven dovetailing is a sign of considerable age in a piece of furniture. Newer machine-cut dovetailing will be much more exact and evenly spaced.
Q: What is Carnival Glass?
A: Carnival glass is made by coating pressed glass with a sodium solution before firing. It was sold in department stores beginning in 1905 and held strong as a favorite with the women of America for the next two decades. Many attribute its popularity to the fact that it mimicked the high end art glass pieces from the Tiffany family, but at a fraction of the price. It was manufactured by most of the top glass factories of the day including what would become know as the “Big 5”: Fenton, Fostoria, Jenkins, McKee and Westmoreland. As we approached the 1930s interest waned and production ceased. However in the1970s we saw a resurgence of interest in the iridescent glass as Fenton released what they referred to as “Original Formula Carnival.” These pieces, were made until 2011 when the Fenton factory closed.
Q: How can you tell if pearls are real?
A: Real pearls will feel cold when first touched and then warm as they are worn. Check to see if all of your pearls are exactly the same size, as antique strand of pearls will have a slight variance. One of the easiest ways to tell real from fake is to rub two pearls together. If they are both real a light “pearl powder” will be produced. When in doubt enlist the assistance of a jeweler who can check for flaws and also the small ridges which are common to all real pearls.
Q: What is a buyer’s premium?
A: It has become the policy of most auctions to charge a buyer’s premium. Ten percent is standard although we are starting to see 15-20% on fine art auctions. This charge is an administrative fee charged by the auction to cover the costs of charge card and office expenses. This fee is in addition to the winning bid. For example, if you purchase an item for $100 and the premium is 10% you will pay $110 at checkout.
And finally the most frequently ask question I receive is “how do we know what will be of value in the future?” While there are no guarantees, there are a few items that the experts seem to agree on: First issue merchandise from blockbuster movies, designer bags and clothing, and first edition books are most always a good investment. And finally, hold on to items that had a short manufacturing run. Popular items that were available for purchase and have low production numbers will be more likely to gain in value than mass-produced merchandise.
Well, that clears my inbox. Time for more questions! Until next time . . . Linda
Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in down-sizing for seniors and the liquidation of estates and may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett@indy.rr.com.
