The best part of writing this column for the past 18 years has been the e-mails, phone calls and one-on-one conversations I have with my readers. You arouse my curiosity, challenge my memory and send me scurrying to the computer for research on a regular basis. It was my greatest fear in starting this column that I would run out of subject matter, but all of you have seen to it that “what in the world do I write about this week?” has never crossed my mind.
Once a year I like to do a little “catching up” for those of you whose questions I did not get covered in a column. So, here are the answers to some of your unanswered questions.
Q: What is a collectible?
A: By definition a collectible is “anything worth collecting”. Vague as that may be, it pretty much sums if up. The defining line for many of us however, is if what we collect has (or may one day have) value. Speculative collecting requires research, patience, and more that anything, time. If you are collecting to see a return on your investment, beware of anything sold as a “collectible,” like items from the Franklin Mint, Danbury Mint and those sold on QVC. Instead, read publications such as Antique Week, attend collectibles auctions to see what is selling, and seek the advice of experienced dealers.
Q: I have noticed that auctions are charging a buyers premium. What is that?
A: This is an fee added to your total purchase at auction. In this area it is normally 10 percent; however, some fine art auctions may charge more. For example, if your winning bids total $100, you will pay $110. These funds are used by the auction house to cover administrative costs. It is a common practice at all major auctions.
Q: How can I tell if my family silverware is sterling or silver plate?
A: The most prolific manufacturer of silverware is 1847 Roger Brothers. If you find this mark on your “silver” it is always plate, as Roger Brothers never produced sterling. If your items are sterling, they will most always be marked with the word “sterling” or a number indicating the purity of the silver. Look for the number 925 or the letters S or SS. Another simple way to tell is a simple magnet test, as sterling will not stick to a magnet. If still in doubt, you can send your silver to a refiner to be x-rayed, as these tests are 100 percent accurate.
Q: Are antique mall prices firm or do they accept offers?
A: This will vary, but most antique malls will to give a 10 percent discount on items over $20. You may also be able to have a staff member call the dealer with an offer. In most cases 15-20 percent of the ticket price will be given consideration. Whether or not your offer is accepted will depend on the length of time the piece has been available for sale and the amount the dealer has invested in it. There are no discounts on items marked FIRM or those that are already on sale.
Q: How do I clean the inside of an old bottle?
A: For bottles that are cloudy, use a mixture of half white vinegar half water and soak overnight. But do NOT use this method on painted or gold-trimmed bottles as the acid in the vinegar will eat the paint. If your bottles have a large amount of debris, pour 1-2 inches of uncooked rice into the bottle and fill the remaining space half way with warm water and two drops of dish soap. Cover and shake vigorously for several minutes. Another good way to scrub the inside of old bottles is with an aquarium brush and hot soapy water.
As I begin my 19th year of “What’s in the Attic?” I would like to thank my readers across the midwest for their comments and questions. Keep ‘em coming! Until next time…..Linda
Irvington resident Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in down-sizing for seniors and the liquidation of estates and may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett@indy.rr.com