This column originally appeared in the March 21, 2014 issue of the Weekly View.
I was amazed at a recent “antique toy show” by the percentage of the items offered for sale that were reproductions. If you love the shows, but want to avoid buying a 2014 “antique,” then the burden of differentiating falls to you. While most major toys and games have been reproduced or reissued, here are three of the most common.
Cast iron toys are one of the most highly reproduced of all collectibles in this category, but thankfully they are also the most easily recognizable. Old cast-iron will have a smooth surface as opposed to the rougher gritty texture of reproduction. Old toys have very tight, almost invisible seams. The newer copies will often have “finning,” which are seams that do not quite match. New iron toys are held together with a Philips head screw and sit very near the surface, while old cast iron toys and banks will have a deeply recessed flathead screw. Some toys are made up of a number of pieces. If the toy is authentic, these pieces will be held together by copper wiring.
The decorative detailing on old iron is very distinctive. Newer pieces will have a rather fuzzy appearance. Also take note of the paint. Old oil-based enamel paint was very thick. New toys will be painted with a thinner coat of color. Don’t let signs of wear fool you. Many new pieces have been intentionally distressed. Just remember, actual wear is random, not consistent.
Many of us spent our childhood playing with Marx toys. Play sets from the 50s and 60s that once sold for $5-$10 can now bring $100-$1,500. This has inspired a rash of fakes since 1995. Make certain to check the “Marx” trademark if you suspect a toy is a reproduction. Marked original metal-litho toys are pre-1970 and will always contain the words, “Made in the United States of America.” You may also find “New York N.Y. “ on the original toys as opposed to the fakes which are being imported from China, and will say only “Marx Toys.” Marx did not mark all of their metal toys, so the absence of a trademark may not indicate that it is authentic.
Key-wind toys have a strong following among today’s collectors. Companies like Schlesinger, Strauss, and Marx developed wind-up designs in tin during the 1920s and 1930s including cars, trains and animals. As toy trends evolved during the 40s and early 50s, wind-up designs turned to Disney characters, cowboys and robots, many of which will be plastic. One of the rarest wind-up toys is the “Atomic Robot Man.” The original currently sells from $400-$800 depending on condition. A newer version of this toy, issued by Schylling Toys, retails for around $20 and is easy to spot as it carries their company logo.
A black light can be of a great help in determining age. The ink on new tin toys often glows, especially white and red. Ink used before 1960 rarely will do this, and there are virtually no inks used before 1940 that glow.
Common sense goes a long way in determining authenticity. Most toys have been heavily played with, making “mint condition” finds rare. If you are looking at a toy truck from the 1940s and there are no dents, chips or missing parts…….it may be time to take a second look! Until next time………Linda
Irvington resident Linda Kennett is a professional liquidator specializing in down-sizing for senior and the liquidation of estates. Currently, Linda is not taking new clients