This column first appeared in June 2012.
The year was 1919. Proper ladies did not work outside the home, education was considered of no use to the fairer sex, and if a woman had a political opinion, she found it best to keep it to herself. What a difference a year makes! With the passing of the 19th Amendment the women on America entered the 1920s with not only the right to vote, but with a new found freedom of expression. Hemlines went up, hair got bobbed, and for the first time it was appropriate for a woman to “powder her nose” in public!
With a flair that would have shocked their mothers, increasing numbers of American women were publicly wearing make up — and a lot of it! Highly influenced by the movie stars of the day with their smoky eyes, bright red lipstick and white-white powder, the Clara Bow “vamp” look was the rage. Names like Elizabeth Arden, Revlon and Max Factor (who coined the term “make-up”) became household names, spurred by radio advertising that leaped from $300,000 to $3.2 million between 1927 and 1930.
Not all the women of the Roaring 20’s chose the glamour girl life style. In an era where women now wore slacks, there emerged the “outdoors girls” who motored around the country and participated with the men in playing golf, tennis and even swimming. To suit their active life style “Cover Girl Outdoor Make-Up” was introduced. Some of the most desirable Deco advertising from this era was used to promote these cosmetics. Their packaging will feature women playing a variety of sports.
Combining fashion with a political statement of their liberation, women now carried and even flaunted the use of the make-up that only a few years before had been considered taboo. Enamel finger ring compacts, compact pendants and lavishly decorated vanity bags which held powder and puff, rouge, lipstick and a mirror, and contained tiny compartments for tissues, coins and cigarettes came on to the scene. These highly collectible American made and imported cosmetic accessories can still be found for a small investment, if you know what to look for.
There are several U.S. companies to acquaint yourself with. The Evans Case Company was one of the most prolific producers of high quality compacts and carryalls. Elgin American Company entered the market in 1923 with a patented “powder box” popularized by their advertisements on Groucho Marx’s radio show “You Bet Your Life.” The J. M. Fisher Company was noted for its colorful enameled compacts with abstract designs. And extremely rare, although they do surface, are the works of Hollywood jeweler, Paul Flato. Catering to the movie stars of the 1930s, he produced high quality one-of-a-kind compacts and lipstick cases.
Imported compacts and cosmetic accessories from England, France and Italy are a great find. Watch for imports from Laughton & Sons Ltd. of England. Of special note are their very early efforts which will be marked “Stratnoid.” Compacts from The Parisian Novelty Company are of double interest as many of their compacts and vanity cases were made for advertising purposes. This crossover appeal makes them a good investment. Also from France come the delightful “Kissing Fairies” compacts from Djer-Kiss Kerkoff. Italian compacts often came with matching lipsticks and combs. They will feature hand painted enamel scenes of couples in countryside settings. Most are marked “800,” denoting their silver content or “Made in Italy.”
Until next time . . . Linda
Linda Kennett may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett@indy.rr.com