In 1913, the U.S. Navy issued a lightweight shirt in the shape of a “T” to be worn as an undergarment. It was a round necked collarless shirt, usually made of cotton and, at its inception, it appeared to be nothing special.
However, in the mid-1950s two of Hollywood’s leading men would elevate this piece of underwear to the fashion statement for a generation when they hit the silver screen sporting tight fitting white “T-shirts.” Marlin Brando in the 1954 hit ”The Wild One” followed in 1955 by James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause” left women swooning and men headed for the gym to get in shape, as the T-shirt went sexy and established itself as an icon of Mid-20th Century fashion.
The first attempt at a “Rock and Roll” concert T came in the late 50s when the East Coast president of the Elvis Presley Fan Club tried her hand at the promotional idea. The popularity of Elvis as recording star did not trickle down to the T-shirt sales and the idea was soon abandoned. It would not be until the end of the 60s, when the idea was revisited by West Coast impresario Bill Graham, that the concept would take flight. Using logo T-shirts to promote the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and other popular San Francisco based groups, Graham established the Rock T-shirt as instant collectible and it remains highly sought by collectors to this day.
Early shirts will have very basic information such as the name of the band, a picture or reproduction of a recent album or tour dates. Lynyrd Skynyrd is recognized as the first band to break with this format with the release of their famous shirt based on the Jack Daniels whiskey logo followed by the baroque designs of Black Sabbath. Value of these early shirts is largely based on the complexity of their graphics with top dollar paid for those with printing on both the front and back of the shirt. A bonus on any shirt is a schedule of concert dates and cities.
Poplar band shirts have experienced mass-reproduction. So how do you know if you have a true “vintage” shirt? Tags can be one of the best ways to date a shirt. Companies from the early years included Screen Stars (later known as Fruit of the Loom), Hanes and Sportswear. A study of the labels for these companies through the 20th Century is one of the best ways to determine the age of a shirt.
Another way to help determine if your shirt is a reproduction is by the size. New issues will tend to be much larger than the original 1970s dimensions. People are larger in general now (thank you Taco Bell) so shirts are cut accordingly. You might also want to give your shirt the “sniff test”! Just as with aged books and paper goods, older fabric will have a distinct odor and newer shirts will . . . well, they will smell new.
There are times when rock t-shirts will take a jump in value. The passing of a rock icon can, at least momentarily, elevate pricing. We have seen this mostly recently with Prince, who’s memorabilia and albums skyrocketed in the months preceding his death. Purchasing while sentiment is at its peak is not wise as the market will settle back in a few months and you will be left collectibles on which you will never recoup your investment. Another example of momentary elevation in value may occur when bands first established in the 60s, 70s and 80s reunite for a “final” tour. Once again, it is best to wait till the concert hype dies down before purchasing their original issue shirts and other memorabilia.
Yard sales will be starting soon so do your homework, know how to identify true vintage shirts and then be on the lookout for a bargain! Until next time….Linda
Linda Kennett is a professional liquidation consultant specializing in senior downsizing and the liquidation of estates and may be reached at 317-258-7835 or lkennett@indy.rr.com
.